SOMMELIER NOTES:

NEW DISCOVERY WINES FROM SLOVENIA - June 2007

By Alan Holmes, Restaurant Manager & Sommelier, Chewton Glen

Slovenia is a small but beautiful country, rich in natural resources, boasting a glorious sunny climate in summer and a cold frosty one in winter. A European Union member, it is located on the Adriatic side of the Alps between Austria and Italy, and makes wines similar in style to both countries. Slovenian wines are widely acclaimed and excellent value-for –money and as a result are becoming increasingly popular.

Each wine region within the country has its own character. Rolling hills of Goriska Brda, long valleys of Vipava, red soil and stone of Karst and hot climate of Slovenska Istra mark the far west end. The low hills of Goriska Brda open towards Friuli, influenced by warm Adriatic wind, overpowering the cold and severe weather form the Alps in the north. The calcareous and marly soil composition offers excellent conditions for fine wines.

Movia vinery with Ales Kristancic makes a superb red Veliko Rdece, fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir du Monde 2007 for Movia Modri Pinot.

Marjan Simcic, excellent producer, Chardonnay, Rebula-based Teodor White, Teodor Red, a particular gem is Leonardo Vino Passito.

Carolina White, made by Jakoncic is a superb indigenous Rebula Chardonnay blend, just taken the Regional Decanter 2007 Champion Award.

Dusan Kristancic is a top producer, spectacular whites include Chardonnay and Sivi Pinot (Pinot Gris). Lovely light Pavo Red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

The Vipava Valley is famous for the strong Burja wind, so stone covered roofs on all the houses are a must. The Sutor family has settled in Vipava in 1499 and been making wine ever since. Personal care and devotion results in amazing whites: Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Burja blend of Rebula, Malvasia and White Riesling.

In the far east corner, next to Hungary and Burgenland Austria, one finds the most delightful dessert wines. The Curin-Prapotnik family has been making them for centuries for the Habsburg emperors in Vienna, and they have mastered the technique of late harvest Sipon, Chardonnay and Rieslings to make superb Ice wine, comparable to Sauternes Premier Cru Superieur of Chateaux d’Yquem, a rare find indeed.

“You’ll be surprised to discover such chic & charm in Slovenian wines. Some I have tasted actually compare to Premier Cru Bordeaux. No wonder they are taking so many Decanter and Wine International Awards.”
Mario Lesnik, Maitre Chef de Cuisine, Claridge’s, Mayfair, London (88-95), Executive Chef Harrods (96), June 2007

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PORTUGESE WINES-September 2006

By Sergio Dos-Santos, Sommelier, Chewton Glen

Wines from Portugal are not only ports?

It is a reality that most of the people tend to forget. In fact, in Portuguese wines were produced before the Romans arrived. Already during the 12-century, the British appreciated the wine of Monção situated around the region of Minho in the North of the country. Portugal and England always had a good partnership trading Portuguese wines for English wool was a common deal between the two nations. Even prior to this the first port was made in the abbots of the monastery in Lamego in 1678.

Located in the far west of Spain, Portugal has a rectangular shape of 93 000 km2 bounded on the west and south by the Atlantic Ocean and on the north and east by Spain which is six times its size, it is not surprising that one of the fears of the country is to be swallowed by one of the two. The continent is scattered with mountains and rivers. Portugal is not a homogeneous country geographically. The physical environment varies enormously, creating several distinct geographic regions.

It’s what make Portuguese wines so special gives it its strength and its originality over the others wine regions.

Let’s have a look of the most famous and also the unknown wines of Portugal.

The North of Portugal is a mountainous, rainy region. This beautiful hilly region in the west generally produces lighter style wines with a refreshing fruity flavour like Alvarinho, an aromatic varieties from the world famous Vinho Verde area. Flavours tend to the mineral, green apple and citrus range.

But if you go a step further, down the Dao region which is a rugged mountainous region producing mild, medium-bodied white wines. It is impossible to ignore the Encruzado variety, when talking about the white wines of the Dão region. In fact, besides being exclusive of Dão (it barely exists in other wine regions), this variety is also responsible for the best white wines in that region. In contrast Barraida is noted for its clay soils and proximity to the Atlantic, this region produces highly perfumed, fuller-style white wines.
And for the white, not to forget Terras do Sado on the Setubal Peninsula south of Lisbon, this region is noted for its dessert wines and was the first in the country to make dry, modern-style white wine.

Did I mention Chardonnay or Sauvignon? Note it’s what Portugal is all about versatility, variety and essentially indigenous grapes. Of course, Port is still the major ambassador and most selling product of Portugal.

When Portugal entered the European Union in 1986, the changes affected the culture as modern winemaking techniques made the Portuguese wine more approachable than before. Previously Portuguese wine was more acidic and rustic in style. Strict temperature control during fermentation allowed the more advanced growers to produce "modern" wines that could be appreciated by all wine lovers.

From typical wines made exclusively for the domestic market, the best wineries came up with new products adapted to the world markets, while keeping some specific characteristics due to the uniqueness of Portuguese varieties.

But what could possibly make Portuguese wines attractive to our guests? By discovering a new word of wines in the old world.

The number of indigenous grape varieties amount to more than 250 and these varieties have some versatility depending on which type of soil and areas they are produced on.

Like the famous Touriga Nacional the Port grape on the hard granite soil of the Dão area, one of the country's oldest winegrowing areas. Its warm climate and mountainous relief produces rich, intense and spicy Touriga National with it typical sweet black fruit and floral nose.

Next to the Dao region, Bairrada, region named from word meaning clay and refers to the chalky limestone soil of the area, is more influenced by the Atlantic climate and its western wind. Baga the local red grape has deep fruitiness, splendid colour and vigour.
The wines of Portugal are a legacy inherited from the Romans, subsequently nurtured and developed by the Portuguese. For centuries, vineyards have flourished throughout the country, covering 9811,400 acres. Having been eclipsed by Port Wine for over 300 years, red and white wines are currently undergoing a major revival, due not only to investment in modern techniques and technology, including stainless steel and controlled fermentation, but also to the new generation of innovative winemakers.

Today, Portuguese wines can compete with wines from all other major wine-producing countries, and are being appreciated as wonderful wines for food with a great price/value ratio. Based on indigenous Portuguese grapes they offer a new world of sensory experiences.